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Albaicin
Although the Alhambra gave Granada its fame, it is far from being the most ancient monument of the city, for Granada was born on the hill on the opposite, western side of the valley, El Albaicin. After being used as a fortress by the Iberians and the Romans, it was chosen by the Zirid Dynasty in the 11th century as the center of their feifdom or "taifa". They later gave way to another North African tribe, the Almoravids, who were in turn displaced by the Almohads.
By the 13th century, the Christian conquests in northern Andalucia drove the warriors of the Nasrid dynasty south to Granada, where they seized power and soon built a new, larger palace on the eastern bank of the river, the Alhambra. The old Zirid fortress was slowly abandoned, leaving only the gates and remnants of walls which we see today among the Albaicin's honeycomb of streets.
As Lorenzo's map shows, El Albaicin is a labyrinth of secluded plazas, alleyways, mosques-rebuilt-as-churches and horseshoe-shaped gates. You can use the map to follow his expeditions through this ancient Moorish medina, which a 17th century poet described as "a paradise closed to many".
1. Mirador de San Cristóbal, viewpoint over Albaicin 2. Church of San Cristóbal 3. Plaza Larga 4. Colegiata de San Salvador, patio of mosque of the Albacin 5. To upper Sacromonte 6. Mirador de San Nicolás, view of Alhambra 7. Church of San Juan de los Reyes, Almohad minaret 8. Placeta de Carvajales, view of Alhambra 9. Church of San José, minaret 10. Plaza de San Miguel Bajo 11. Casa de Castril, Archaeological Museum 12. Bañuelo, Moorish baths 13. Church of Santa Ana, mudéjar steeple 14. Casa de Porras 15. Convent of Santa Isabel la Católica 16. Dar al-Horra 17. Church of San Miguel Bajo 18. Convento de Las Tomasas 19. Way up (on foot) to the Alhambra through the forest
Convent of Santa Isabel la Real
Street and Church of San Juan de los Reyes
Carrera del Darro, convents and Moorish bath
Cuesta de Chapiz, Cuesta de los Chinos, Fuente del Avellano
GRANADA, CITY OF MY DREAMS, a book for the curious traveller, written and illustrated by Lorenzo Bohme and published by Editorial Natívola (2003) is now in its 3rd edition. To read about it and Nativola's other publications, click here.
